I woke up at eight this morning, wandered into the kitchen and made myself a cup of coffee. While waiting for the kettle to boil, I put together a plate of fresh Gozo cheese and tomatoes, and a handful of basil crackers. I sat on the terrace crunching away happily, and when the plate was empty I alternated between sips of coffee and drags on a cigarette until there were no more sips to sip or drags to drag.